2022年8月10日 星期三

Issey Miyake (三宅 一生, 1938~ 2022) 第一位外國時尚設計師在Paris Fashion Week登台 (in April 1974)

 Issey Miyake (三宅 一生, 1938~ 2022) 第一位外國時尚設計師在Paris Fashion Week登台 (in April 1974)


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Issey_Miyake


他以極富工藝創新的服飾設計、展覽及一生之水香水聞名於世。


生於廣島縣廣島市,1964年畢業於東京多摩美術大學平面設計系,畢業後曾在巴黎紐約工作,1968年先是和紀梵希一起工作,不久,他又為紐約的高夫萊比恩工作。1970年回到東京,並成立了三宅設計事務所



1980年代後期,三宅一生開始試驗一種製作新型褶狀紡織品的方法,這種織料不僅使穿戴者感覺靈活和舒適,並且生產和保養也更為簡易。這種新型的技術最後被稱為三宅褶皺(也稱一生褶),而子品牌Pleats Please也於1993年創建。製作這種織物時,需先將布料裁剪和縫紉成型,再夾入紙層之中,壓緊並熱熨,褶皺就形成了,並且會一直保持著。

In the late 1980s, he began to experiment with new methods of pleating that would allow both flexibility of movement for the wearer as well as ease of care and production. The garments are cut and sewn first, then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric's 'memory' holds the pleats and when the garments are liberated from their paper cocoon, they are ready-to wear. He did the costume for Ballett Frankfurt with an ultra feather-polyester jersey permanently pleated in a piece named "the Loss of Small Detail" William Forsythe and also work on ballet "Garden in the setting". Miyake realized that the new method of making clothes fit well in dancers. After studying how dancers move, he sent 200 to 300 garments for dancers to wear a different one in each performance of The Last Detail. This led to the development of the Pleats, Please range and inspired him to use dancers to display his work.




From a young age, Miyake respected artist Isamu Noguchi, whose novelty and sense of fun in his designs inspired Miyake. He was also inspired by fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet's use of geometric calculations and "a single piece of beautiful cloth."[5] In Paris, he visited several museums and he mentioned that he was influenced by sculptors such as Constantin Brancusi and Alberto Giacometti






井深大(左)と盛田昭夫(右)

1970年代は家庭用VTRの普及をめざし、1970年(昭和45年)に松下電器産業日本ビクターなどと共同してビデオカセット規格「U規格」を立ち上げる。1971年(昭和46年)に対応製品「Uマチック」を発売するが成功せず、1975年(昭和50年)に小型化・低価格化を図ったビデオカセット規格「ベータマックス」を発売する



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