新發明的鞋子如何改變芭蕾舞的格局：一款融合了運動鞋技術的全新舞鞋，正為舞者提供從腳跟到腳踝的全面支撐。How a Shoe Invented by a Dancer Might Be a Game Changer“我喜歡皮鞋的抓地力，這樣在舞台上奔跑或與舞伴共舞時可以更好地轉移重心，”科爾談到他的皮鞋時說道，“所以我需要適應帆布鞋，並更有信心穿著它們上台。這就是我的目標。”

一位舞者發明的鞋子如何改變芭蕾舞的格局

芭蕾舞的發展是一個緩慢的過程，舞鞋也不例外。但一款融合了運動鞋技術的全新舞鞋，正為舞者提供從腳跟到腳踝的全面支撐。

How a Shoe Invented by a Dancer Might Be a Game Changer

Ballet evolves slowly, and that includes footwear. But a new shoe with sneaker technology is giving dancers support from the heel up.

奧爾札在研發這款鞋時所繪製的設計草圖。圖片來源：格蘭特‧欣茲利（Grant Hindsley），《紐約時報》

標準的芭蕾舞鞋雖然有一些襯墊，但通常是平底的。奧爾扎鞋與傳統芭蕾舞鞋最大的區別在於它有支撐性的鞋跟和多層泡沫來緩衝蹠骨。 “這讓它更穩定、更安全，”奧爾扎說，“這正是我作為一名舞者所需要的。”

舞蹈鞋服公司布洛赫（Bloch）的創意總監大衛威爾肯菲爾德（David Wilkenfeld）也認為，男士芭蕾舞鞋的發展並不多。但他質疑是否有必要進行徹底的變革，甚至是否值得歡迎。 「如果它沒壞，為什麼要修呢？」他在與布洛赫全球鞋類主管弗雷德·佩雷斯（Fred Perez）的聯合採訪中說道。

除了專利的奧爾扎鞋之外，或許會有更多有襯墊的鞋子開始採用這種設計。威爾肯菲爾德表示，布洛赫公司正在研發一款帶有後跟支撐的芭蕾舞鞋，最終目標是推出一款結構更堅固的男士芭蕾舞靴。 （威爾肯菲爾德和佩雷斯表示，他們的設計並未受到奧爾扎舞鞋的影響。）

布洛赫公司也常為各大舞團的舞者訂製舞鞋。紐約市芭蕾舞團的獨舞演員哈里森·科爾在大多數演出中都穿著布洛赫的皮鞋，但如果條件允許，他也會選擇奧爾扎舞鞋，儘管目前奧爾扎舞鞋只有帆布款。

“我喜歡皮鞋的抓地力，這樣在舞台上奔跑或與舞伴共舞時可以更好地轉移重心，”科爾談到他的皮鞋時說道，“所以我需要適應帆布鞋，並更有信心穿著它們上台。這就是我的目標。”

Orza’s design sketches drawn as he developed the shoe.Credit...Grant Hindsley for The New York Times

Standard ballet shoes have some padding but are generally flat. The big difference between the Orza and a traditional shoe is that there is a supportive heel and layers of foam to cushion the metatarsal. “It makes it more stable and safer,” Orza said, “all the things that I would want as a dancer.”

David Wilkenfeld, the creative director of Bloch, a dance footwear and apparel company, agreed that not many advances had been made in men’s ballet shoes. But he wondered if drastic changes were necessary or even welcome. “Why fix it if it’s not broken?” he said in a joint interview with Fred Perez, Bloch’s global head of footwear.

More cushions may start to work their way into shoes beyond the patented Orza. In development at Bloch, Wilkenfeld said, is a ballet shoe with heel support and, eventually, a new ballet boot for men, with more structure. (Wilkenfeld and Perez said they were not influenced by the Orza.)

It’s also common at Bloch to customize shoes for dancers at major companies. Harrison Coll, a City Ballet soloist, wears his leather Bloch shoes in most performances, but opts for the Orza when he can, though for now it’s only available in canvas.

“I like having the grip to change my weight if I’m running around onstage or if I am partnering,” Coll said of his leather shoes. “So I just have to get used to canvas and feel more confident to wear them onstage. That’s my goal.”

Prototype heels, left, and the Orza shoe in action.Credit...Grant Hindsley for The New York Times