2023年12月30日 星期六

HANNA ESHEL 1926 - 2023.音樂家室友行銷她33年無人理會的大理石雕塑

 


佳美 (1)  音樂家室友行銷她33年無人理會的大理石雕塑 (HANNA ESHEL 1926 - 2023.  回憶錄 Michelangelo and Me: Six Years in My Carrara Haven  )  

https://hcmemory.blogspot.com/2023/12/1-hanna-eshel-1926-2023-michelangelo.html

https://www.facebook.com/hanching.chung/videos/6777539732374515

2023年12月26日 星期二

Jean-Paul Sartre. Simone de Beauboir 日本高齢化


Growing, ripening, aging, dying — the passing of time is predestined, inevitable.
There is only one solution if old age is not to be an absurd parody of our former life, and that is to go on pursuing ends that give our existence a meaning — devotion to individuals, to groups or to causes, social, political, intellectual or creative work. In old age we should wish still to have passions strong enough to prevent us turning in on ourselves.
One’s life has value so long as one attributes value to the life of others, by means of love, friendship, indignation, compassion. ~Simone de Beauvoir

(Book: The Coming of Age [ad] https://amzn.to/48wmqQ1)

◤日本88歲奶奶用科技養老,越活越年輕◢
Q:你家裡的長輩會用電腦嗎?
 
不管是操作智能家電、用Excel設計產品
亦或是撰電腦寫程式等,
這些困擾著家中長輩的新科技
都難不倒88歲的日本奶奶若宮正子。
 
#透過科技與年輕人交流_會忘了自己上了年紀
-若宮正子
 
現在的日本正掀起一場高齡科技化的生活運動,
啟動機器人國家戰略計畫,
投資AI以及機器人技術革新,
希望翻轉老化社會帶來的問題。
到底日本人是怎麼透過科技來養老的
讓我們一起看下去吧!
--
深度人物專訪,就在天下雜誌Youtube
>>https://bit.ly/3gR6jCc
--
葉金川:還好我得了癌症,從此有了任性的本錢
https://bit.ly/2IX64dk
 
#天下雜誌video


(Art: Photograph of Georgia O’Keeffe by John Loengard)



Back Story
Associated Press
“Je refuse le prix,” Jean-Paul Sartre said on this day in 1964.
With these words, the French writer and philosopher, above, became the first person to freely decline the Nobel Prize.
But the Swedish Academy wasn’t the first to hear them.
A young journalist landed the scoop after tracking down Sartre at a Paris bistro. The 59-year-old “pope of existentialism” was lunching with Simone de Beauvoir, his longtime partner.
Interrupted before the cheese course, Sartre was stunned to hear that he had just been named the academy’s literary laureate. (A week earlier, after learning that he had been nominated for the honor, he wrote to the jury asking not be chosen. His letter didn’t arrive in time.)
That evening, Sartre read a statement to the Swedish press to explain why he refused the prize — and the $53,000 that came with it.
Official honors, he said, exposed his readers “to a pressure I do not consider desirable.”
The jury did not change its decision.
More than a decade later, Sartre, or someone related to him, allegedly asked for the money that he had turned down, according to the Swedish Academy’s former secretary.
This time, it was the academy that declined.
Lara Takenaga wrote today’s Back Story.

'A Charlie Brown Christmas' :celebrates 50 years of 'Peanuts' ...Charles M. Schulz;SNOOPY 65歲;冷彬...Cartoon Characters Get Big Makeover

'A Charlie Brown Christmas' is a timeless Christmas tradition. Why does it endure? Because the title character understands what Christmas is all about, writes Stephen Lind in WSJ Opinion
In The Wall Street Journal, Stephen Lind writes that the 50-year-old Charlie Brown Christmas TV tradition endures because Chuck knows the reason for the season.
WSJ.COM|由 STEPHEN LIND 上傳
“A Charlie Brown Christmas” is an unforgettable blend of jazz and carols that has enchanted listeners for 50 years. One of those listeners reflects on the inspiration.
As a boy growing up in West Virginia, Harvard's Brad Conner loved Vince Guaraldi’s music.
NEWS.HARVARD.EDU

SNOOPY 65歲生日快樂
20多年收集逾萬件 體會人生哲學

2015年12月12日

冷彬(右)和冷靜姐妹倆10多歲愛上史努比後,痴狂收集,現有逾萬件各式物品,她們的生活裡,史努比全都參與。




1950年《花生漫畫》誕生,一隻酷狗、一群怪癖小孩,紅遍全球,他們收服冷彬的心,她花20多年時間收集逾萬件物品,因為史努比,她寫書、翻譯、和舒茲太太成為好友,並以哲學家的精神、鑽研劇情、對白、人物角色和性格,她說,查理布朗永遠放不起風箏、棒球比賽總是慘敗,但他不在意,總說明天再來,「舒茲想表達,永不放棄的人生態度。」今年,史努比65歲生日,全球慶賀活動不斷,除了賣歡樂、賣可愛,更賣那永不熄滅的樂觀態度。採訪╱彭蕙珍 攝影╱唐紹航、福斯影片提供


「查理布朗總是被說成魯蛇,但在現實中,查理布朗是個贏家,因為他永不放棄。」克雷格舒茲(作者查爾斯舒茲”Charles M. Schulz”的兒子)說。這部替小人物發聲的《花生漫畫》(Peanuts)於1950年10月2日於報上連載後,立刻博得讀者認同,並開始它走紅全球的傳奇。

史努比收藏家冷彬說:「漫畫裡面講的是『失敗』,查理布朗打棒球永遠是慘敗、風箏總是放不起來、踢不到足球,雖然重覆失敗,他總是說,我們還是要加油!漫畫讓我們從失敗和挫折裡解脫,並一而再、再而三的站起來。」




「史努比多到像故宮」

10多歲時冷彬和姐姐冷靜,因家裡不能養狗,將感情轉移到史努比-這隻酷酷的獵犬身上,「那時媽媽買很多卡通人物的東西,我們特別喜歡史努比,只要是他的東西都捨不得用,文具、貼紙、衛生紙、餅乾包裝盒,都很愛惜,還保留到現在,所以量很驚人。」
當她接觸到漫畫後,以哲學家的精神、鑽研每段劇情、對白、人物角色和性格,她形容:「我姐就是一般人,看史努比只是笑到天翻地覆。」冷靜大她5歲,妹妹出生時,她完全不能接受,冷彬說:「姐姐就像漫畫裡的露西,很自我。」從漫畫她看到自己。
因為姐妹的興趣,家人也投入史努比收藏,冷彬笑道:「全家的生活記憶,都與史努比有關,從T恤、包包,到日用品,只要有史努比圖案的,我們都有;媽媽說家裡的史努比多到像故宮,3個月換1次,可以換10年。」 

寫書翻譯 傳頌經典

2000年因收藏史努比走紅,隔年冷彬接受出版社邀請,撰寫史努比收藏書籍。其後赴紐約讀書,為寫書,她到史努比博物館(Charles M. Schulz Museum)朝聖,和舒茲太太成為好友,「她把我當成是很好的年輕朋友」,兩人情誼延續至今。
後來,她翻譯史努比漫畫,對漫畫如數家珍的她表示,漫畫經典場景的藏品最有意義,如露西心理諮商小舖,「她是非常自我的小女生,舒茲讓一個跋扈、頭腦簡單、個性明快的人當心理諮商師,可能是想表達,懶得跟你多說,過日子不要想這麼多。」
「查理布朗和奈勒斯依在圍牆、天南地北的聊天,內容很無聊但又幽默,非常小大人。」她指出,這個場景在舒茲出生地-明尼蘇達州聖保羅市,有一個放大版,粉絲去朝聖時可以在圍牆和他們合照。 

生日必敗 首推瓷器

今年是史努比65歲生日,全球有許多慶賀活動,並推出周邊商品,她推薦粉絲購買最好入手的瓷器,包括杯、盤。今年推出的瓷器,印製的圖案相當特別,是史努比和查理布朗1950年首度現身漫畫的模樣。
她解釋:「角色改版多次,1990年後才是現在看到的模樣。」舒茲生前,只授權1990年後的圖案,復古版是近年因應粉絲要求才推出。
《花生漫畫》在全球擁有數億粉絲,舒茲更因此躋身富翁之列,但自卑的他卻不相信這件事。冷彬說:「他不是那麼有自信的人。」然而,這樣一位悲觀的人,卻在戰後用那麼大的幽默感去嘲笑世界,更用漫畫、卡通,陪伴世界各地大人、小孩,度過無數歡樂時光。 
。。。。Thought from Germanb

《德國人看花生》

德國連鎖書店《Thalia》最近與美國《花生漫畫》(Peanuts) 合作,推出一系列產品,從漫畫書到毛公仔也有,亦有許多各適其適的家具用品。

《花生漫畫》在世上差不多無人不曉,在香港《星島日報》亦連載多年;而德國人欣賞這漫畫,因其創作者舒爾茨 (Charles M. Schulz) 是德裔而有種特別連繫。

舒爾茨生於上世紀二十年代,父親是生於德國東部的理髮師,德文是母語。舒爾茨在美國出生長大,小時候已經愛繪圖。青年時代正值二戰,他被召入伍到歐洲參戰,參與了解放慕尼黑附近的達豪 (Dachau) 集中營。可說他亦是德國人所稱的「時代見證人」,見證過納粹對待猶太人和異見分子之慘酷。

舒爾茨說最有印象的,是有次遇到個德軍士兵時步槍卻忘了上膛,可幸的是這士兵主動投降。這位漫畫家說起這段參戰歷史總是非常自豪,亦很榮幸獲得國家勛章。

這位剛退伍的年輕人,報讀了繪畫進修課程。1950 年起開始創作《花生漫畫》,裡面的每個角色都令人難以忘懷—查理布朗懵懂而善良、史諾比精明而幽默、連奈斯執著而有藝術天份。這些角色都是舒爾茨的自述與觀察,隱含了他的自我。

舒爾茨那代德裔美國人,是十九世紀末許多德國人遠渡大西洋移美歷史的續篇,亦可說是最後一代感受到這份淵源的人。從 1848 年至一戰,就有超過 600 萬德意志人移美。裡面有支持德國共和革命的人,有因為經濟理由移民者,亦有因為國內水災和農作物失收因而不得不另覓生計者。

一戰時美國瀰漫反德情緒,一些地區禁止德文課並焚燒德文書籍,很多德裔人只好融入英語主流文化。舒爾茨在一戰結束後不久出生,父親雖為德裔,家中卻講英文。除了姓氏外,舒爾茨身上的德國痕跡不多。然而從其作品中可看到德國的根。施奈達很喜歡彈奏貝多芬,亦曾與露西爭論貝多芬作品裡的德文冠詞應用哪性別。

今天許多有德國姓氏的第五六代德裔美國人,都不再講德文,與德國沒有聯繫。舒爾茨的漫畫,展露美國社會人人互信、善良友愛的那面,亦滲集德國人喜愛的哲學反思,是德美兩文化交集的一闕佳品。

(圖: Wikipedia)
。。。

查理布朗和奈勒斯2人依在圍牆聊天,內容無聊但又幽默,有些對談很小大人。這個場景在聖保羅市中心的Landmark Plaza有一個放大版,提供粉絲合照。
露西心理諮商小舖,在漫畫中很多人會向露西吐苦水,她的回答很白痴、好笑,很直率,也許在表達過日子不要想這麼多。
校車是很重要的場景,等校車時角色有很多對話。在美國購得的日本製商品,2005年,購入價約1000元。



65周年紀念商品。是史努比和查理布朗1950年首度現身漫畫的模樣,盤子加杯子,購入價約600元。
史努比漫畫。2004年5月起推史努比全集,1年出版2本,2016年4月出版最後1本。冷彬為中文版翻譯,台灣只翻了4本。
BEST FRIEND。舒茲過世後,他的出生地明尼蘇達州聖保羅市,做了1個約250公分高銅像,此為縮小版,限量1000份,購入價1000多元。

【認識史努比漫畫】

●源起:
1950年10月2日《花生漫畫》(Peanuts)開始連載,史努比出現在漫畫問世後的第2天,因此粉絲認為他的生日是10月4日,但漫畫裡曾說是8月10日
●作者:
查爾斯.舒茲(Charles Schulz,1922~2000),2000年過世漫畫停刊,共畫了50年
●成績:
2000年停刊時,漫畫擁有約3.5億讀者,分布在全球21國,約2600份不同的報紙
●其它重要角色:
•查理布朗(CHARLIE BROWN),史努比的主人,什麼事都做不好的男孩子
•露西(LUCY),自我的女孩,以為世界是繞著她轉
•奈勒斯(LINUS),露西的弟弟,無法離開從小陪伴他的毛巾
•謝勒德(SCHROEDER),藝術家,經常彈鋼琴,常將貝多芬掛在嘴邊 

【冷彬小檔案】

年齡:1978年生(37歲)
學歷:台大社會系社工組畢業、美國紐約哥倫比亞大學社工系碩士
經歷:
●24歲:撰寫《我們的史努比收藏》
●26歲:翻譯《Peanuts漫畫全集》 

Cartoon Characters
Get Big Makeover
For Overseas Fans

Powerpuff Girls' Leggy Look
Wows Viewers in Japan;
A Brown Snoopy Is Axed
By GEOFFREY A. FOWLER and AMY CHOZICK
October 16, 2007; Page A1
TOKYO -- Big round heads and tiny bodies make the Powerpuff Girls instantly identifiable to their fans in America. The preteen karate superheroes star in one of the top-rated shows on cable's Cartoon Network.
Last year, though, the "Powerpuff Girls" showed up in Japan with a whole new look. On "Demashita! Powerpuff Girls Z," the heroines have grown up, sprouted long legs and wear skirts well above their knees. In the original American storyline, the girls were created of sugar, spice and everything nice; their Japanese counterparts are normal girls who acquire superpowers from a chemical reaction initiated by a rice cake.
[The original Powerpuff Girls, top. Their Japanese 'transcreation,' bottom.]
The original Powerpuff Girls, top. Their Japanese 'transcreation,' bottom.
Once, American entertainment companies exporting characters just dubbed them into other languages. But in recent years, Asia has become the testing ground for character reinvention, a process called "transcreation."
The idea is to help characters designed with one audience in mind to really resonate in another culture.
Marvel Entertainment Inc. and Gotham Entertainment introduced a transcreated "Spider-Man" to the Indian market in 2004, although the original had been familiar there for a long time.
There, Spidey's alter ego, Peter Parker, is known as Pavitr Prabhakar. Spidey gains his powers from a mysterious yogi rather than a radioactive spider. When fighting crime, he sports a traditional loincloth.
Spidey also inspired one of the region's first transcreations. In 1978, the Japanese media company Toei turned Peter Parker into a racing champion named Yamashiro Takuya, who wears a bracelet that gives him the powers of a spider. His alter ego "Supaidah Man" controls a giant transforming robot to battle an enemy named Professor Monster.
Disney has had a hit in China with its "Cuties" line of Mickey Mouse and friends featuring tiny eyes, button noses and the almost-not-there mouths of Japan's Hello Kitty. Sometimes the cutie Minnie even carries a cellphone. Disney came up with the design six years ago in Japan, and now it's a top seller among preteens in China who didn't grow up with the original Mickey.
Adults like Sarah Chen, a 23-year-old graduate student in Shanghai, like them, too. "They are so cute and sweet, just like a little baby," says Ms. Chen, who first discovered the Disney cuties online and eventually purchased a sweater with the modified Mickey Mouse on it.
[promo retoon]
Sesame Workshop
"Sesame Street" arrived in India last summer after swapping Big Bird for Boombah (center), an aristocratic lion fond of bhangra, a style of dancing often seen in Bollywood films.
Most media companies acknowledge the need to localize their fare. While there's still a global audience for "Tom and Jerry" reruns and Hollywood blockbusters, American imports don't top the TV ratings in most non-English-speaking markets. Transcreation nods to that need for local relevance.
"There are very few things that work everywhere," says Orion Ross, a vice president of creative at Time Warner's Turner Networks in Asia. "Places with strong national identities, like Japan and India, need adaptation and change," he says.
For some time-tested characters, change doesn't come easily. Disney tweaked Mickey into "Cutie" form, but still insists that only Western women can play Cinderella and Snow White at Tokyo and Hong Kong Disneylands. A Disney spokeswoman says, "These performers bring the animated roles to life and are therefore cast to most closely resemble the onscreen characters....It's about remaining true to the original animated feature."
The family of Charles M. Schulz, the creator of "Peanuts" who died in 2000, forbids any changes to his comic strip. "There is no adapting Peanuts," says a spokeswoman for United Media, the New York company that distributes the feature to newspapers around the world.
Sometimes, though, changes slip in under the radar. The Times of India printed the Peanuts strip with the dog Snoopy painted brown. After the Wall Street Journal asked about that, a United Media spokeswoman said it was a "coloring error" that would be corrected. Now, Snoopy is white in the Indian newspaper, as he is in the U.S.
Ratan Barua, senior cartoon colorist for the Times in New Delhi, says coloring Snoopy brown was his idea. "I thought he should be brown," he says. While he has complied with the distributor's request to adhere to white, he says the result is "not very good."
Characters occasionally thrive despite their foreignness. When Nickelodeon looked into bringing SpongeBob SquarePants to Japan, market research said the show was bound to flop. Japanese viewers were believed to favor characters whose appearance exudes warmth and comfort, a concept known in Japanese as iyashi. Iyashi characters -- typically round, with no mouth and small eyes -- rose to prominence in Japan during the long-running economic slump that began in the early 1990s, when people were anxious and uncertain about the future.
SpongeBob, with his square body, huge mouth, buckteeth, big bug eyes and somewhat annoying personality, was the antithesis of iyashi. But viewers didn't mind: Nearly two million households soon tuned into the show every day. One thing that may have helped is that SpongeBob lives in an undersea world without humans and overt cultural references. "There is very little about SpongeBob that is 'American,'" says Cyma Zarghami, president of the Nickelodeon MTV Networks Kids and Family Group.
When Craig McCracken created the Powerpuff Girls show, he deliberately gave it what he thought was a "Japanese look." But when the show first aired in Japan in 2001, it failed to attract a wide audience. So Cartoon Network decided to reinvent the characters to boost its appeal in Japan, an idea Mr. McCracken welcomed.
In their transcreation, Blossom, Buttercup and Bubbles got Japanese names and the lives of typical Japanese junior-high-school students. Since Japanese kids like to dress up like their favorite characters, the girls got more realistic outfits, with miniskirts, matching vests and hip-hugging belts.
Toei Co., the Japanese animation house brought in to help rework the characters, kept the original Powerpuff premise of crime-fighting girls with superhuman powers. To appeal to a preference among Japanese children for longer, more dramatic plots, it made the seven- to 11-minute shows 15 to 20 minutes long. It also gave them a common Japanese theme: accepting people who are different.
"Monsters can be anyone who is different from us. If we change our attitude, they can become our friends," says Hiromi Seki, a producer at Toei who helped create the show. That's a particularly relevant message in Japan, where the pressures among children to conform are very intense.
In one episode, an evil character threatens to bring about an eruption of Mount Fuji that would make Tokyo unbearably hot and spark global climate change. In another episode, a heartbroken performer of traditional kabuki theater turns into a monster and wreaks havoc on his community.
"In Japan, girly love themes are a must," Ms. Seki says. When "Demashita! Powerpuff Girls Z" was launched in Japan a year ago, the executives at Cartoon Network soon realized that the revamped plots and skimpier outfits not only attracted young girls, they also broadened the audience to include animation-obsessed adult men known in Japan as otaku, or geeks, who were also fans of the original.
So the network came out with special consumer goods like bookmarks, limited-edition DVDs and pop music targeted at viewers like Hironobu Kamata, a 42-year-old manager of a copyright office in Tokyo. Mr. Kamata wakes up every Saturday morning to watch the Powerpuff Girls.
His favorite character is Miyako Goutokuji, the blond girl known as Bubbles in the U.S. "I love it all! The characters are so cute," says Mr. Kamata.
Write to Geoffrey A. Fowler at geoffrey.fowler@wsj.com and Amy Chozick at amy.chozick@wsj.com

2023年12月24日 星期日

Robert M. Solow 1924~2023, Groundbreaking Economist and Nobelist, Dies at 99. Irving Penn, Fashion Photographer, Is Dead at 92

 Robert M. Solow 1924~2023, Groundbreaking Economist and Nobelist, Dies at 99.   

So what did explain growth? Entrepreneurs? Geography? Legal institutions? Something else?

he singled out technological progress (the ability of society to translate inputs of capital and labor into outputs of goods and services)


“I discovered to my great surprise that the main source of growth was not capital investment but technological change,” 

Specifically, he estimated that technical progress accounted for a surprising 80 percent of 20th-century American growth. He later pointed to Silicon Valley as a validation of his theory.



Beyond the impact of his own research, Professor Solow helped launch the careers of a stunning number of future superstar economists, including four Nobel laureates: Peter Diamond, Joseph E. Stiglitz, William D. Nordhaus and George A. Akerlof. “My pride and joy,” Professor Solow said.

“All his former students idolize him — all, with no exceptions.”

“I was given the office next to Paul Samuelson’s,” he recounted in the publication Les Prix Nobel. “Thus began what is now almost 40 years of almost daily conversations about economics, politics, our children, cabbages and kings.”



The Solow growth model, propounded in his book “A Contribution to the Theory of Economic Growth,” in 1956, and its empirical follow-up, “Technical Change and the Aggregate Production Function,” published in 1957, made his reputation while he was in his early 30s and led in due course to the Clark Medal and the Nobel Memorial Prize in Economic Sciences.


he reveals a fundamental difficulty with the role of philosopher-king. It is too damn hard.


the living conditions of low-wage workers were better in Europe because of a more generous social-safety net there, along with rules that provided workers with greater bargaining power.


Robert M. Solow, Groundbreaking Economist and Nobelist, Dies at 99

His elegant work established that the main determinant of economic growth was technology, not growing capital and labor.

Robert Solow, wearing a white dress shirt and tie but no jacket, talks on the phone while sitting in a chair in a very cluttered office. He has glasses and is smiling broadly.
Robert M. Solow in 1987, when he won the Nobel Memorial Prize in Economic Sciences.Credit...Mark Lennihan/Associated Press
Robert Solow, wearing a white dress shirt and tie but no jacket, talks on the phone while sitting in a chair in a very cluttered office. He has glasses and is smiling broadly.

Robert M. Solow, who won a Nobel in economic science in 1987 for his theory that advances in technology, rather than increases in capital and labor, have been the primary drivers of economic growth in the United States, died on Thursday at his home in Lexington, Mass. He was 99.



米国の写真家アービング・ペンさんが7日、ニューヨークの自宅で死去した。92歳。ファッション誌「ヴォーグ」の表紙を手がけるなど、20世紀で最も影響力のある写真家として知られた。死因は明らかにされていない。複数の米メディアが伝えた。

 ニュージャージー州出身。画家を目指したが、雑誌のデザイナーに。たまたま撮った写真が43年のヴォーグの表紙を飾り、評価を受ける。簡素な構図を発展させて、写真を芸術の領域に引き上げたといわれる。(ニューヨーク)

Irving Penn, Fashion Photographer, Is Dead at 92


Published: October 7, 2009

Irving Penn, one of the 20th century’s most prolific and influential photographers of fashion and the famous, whose signature blend of classical elegance and cool minimalism was recognizable to magazine readers and museumgoers worldwide, died Wednesday morning at his home in Manhattan. He was 92.

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Irving Penn, New York, 1951.

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Irving Penn's “Woman With Roses,” with Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn in Lafaurie Dress, Paris, 1950.

His death was announced by Peter MacGill, his friend and representative.

Mr. Penn’s talent for picturing his subjects with compositional clarity and economy earned him the widespread admiration of readers of Vogue during his long association with the magazine, beginning in 1943. It also brought him recognition in the art world; his photographs have been exhibited in museums and galleries and are prized by collectors.

His long career at Vogue spanned a number of radical transformations in fashion and its depiction, but his style remained remarkably constant. Imbued with calm and decorum, his photographs often seemed intent on defying fashion. His models and portrait subjects were never seen leaping or running or turning themselves into blurs. Even the rough-and-ready members of the Hell’s Angels motorcycle gang, photographed in San Francisco in 1967, were transformed within the quieting frame of his studio camera into the graphic equivalent of a Greek frieze.

Instead of spontaneity, Mr. Penn provided the illusion of a seance, his gaze precisely describing the profile of a Balenciaga coat or of a Moroccan jalaba in a way that could almost mesmerize the viewer. Nothing escaped the edges of his photographs unless he commanded it. Except for a series of close-up portraits that cut his subjects’ heads off at the forehead, and another, stranger suite of overripe nudes, his subjects were usually shown whole, apparently enjoying a splendid isolation from the real world.

He was probably most famous for photographing Parisian fashion models and the world’s great cultural figures, but he seemed equally at home photographing Peruvian peasants or bunion pads. Merry Foresta, co-organizer of a 1990 retrospective of his work at the National Museum of American Art, wrote that his pictures exhibited “the control of an art director fused with the process of an artist.”

A courtly man whose gentle demeanor masked an intense perfectionism, Mr. Penn adopted the pose of a humble craftsman while helping to shape a field known for putting on airs. Although schooled in painting and design, he chose to define himself as a photographer, scraping his early canvases of paint so that they might serve a more useful life as backdrops to his pictures.

He was also a refined conversationalist and a devoted husband and friend. His marriage to Lisa Fonssagrives, a beautiful model, artist and his sometime collaborator, lasted 42 years, ending with her death at the age of 80 in 1992. Mr. Penn’s photographs of Ms. Fonssagrives not only captured a slim woman of lofty sophistication and radiant good health; they also set the esthetic standard for the elegant fashion photography of the 1940s and ’50s.

Ms. Fonssagrives became a sculptor after her modeling career ended. In 1994, Mr. Penn and their son, Tom, a metal designer, arranged the printing of a book that reproduced his wife’s sculpture, prints and drawings. In addition to his son, Mr. Penn is survived by his stepdaughter, Mia Fonssagrives Solow, a sculptor and jewelry designer; his younger brother, Arthur, the well-known director of such films as “Bonnie and Clyde,” and eight grandchildren.

Mr. Penn had the good fortune of working for and collaborating with two of the 20th century’s most inventive and influential magazine art directors, Alexey Brodovitch and Alexander Liberman. He studied with Mr. Brodovitch in Philadelphia as a young man and came to New York in 1937 as his unpaid design assistant at Harper’s Bazaar, the most provocative fashion magazine of the day. But it was under Mr. Liberman, at Vogue, that Mr. Penn forged his career as a photographer.

In the book “Irving Penn: Passage” (1991), a compilation of the photographer’s career, Mr. Liberman wrote of meeting Mr. Penn for the first time in 1941: “Here was a young American who seemed unspoiled by European mannerisms or culture. I remember he wore sneakers and no tie. I was struck by his directness and a curious unworldliness, a clarity of purpose, and a freedom of decision. What I call Penn’s American instincts made him go for the essentials.”

Irving Penn was also a consummate technician, known equally for the immaculate descriptive quality of his still-life arrangements of cosmetics and other consumer goods and for his masterly exploration of photographic materials. Not content with the conventions of the darkroom or with the standard appearance of commercial prints, he was willing to experiment. He resorted to bleaching the prints of his nudes series, eliminating skin tones and making female flesh appear harsh and unforgiving but nonetheless sexually charged.

At the height of the cultural convulsions of the 1960s Mr. Penn taught himself to print his own pictures using a turn-of-the-century process that relies on platinum instead of more conventional silver. The process produces beautiful, velvety tones in the image and is among the most permanent of photographic processes, although it requires time-consuming preparation and precise control in the darkroom.

Over the next 30 years Mr. Penn labored to print all his new work, as well as to reprint much of his earlier work, using this platinum process, which requires that a photographer mix a recipe of exotic chemicals and then hand-coat them onto a sheet of drawing paper. Mr. Penn, who almost single-handedly brought the process back into popularity among photographic artists, perfected a method of coating the paper with multiple layers of metallic salts, greatly increasing the depth and luminosity of the final print.

Mr. Penn’s concern with the longevity of his prints was one aspect of an enduring career. Not only was he the photographer with the longest tenure in the history of Condé Nast, which publishes Vogue; he also created timeless images of fashion and celebrity, two arenas characterized by constant change. At the same time, he took pains to acknowledge mortality and decay in his photographs, focusing his more personal work on cigarette butts, sidewalk detritus and, while in his 70s, on the skulls of wild animals.

In his catalog essay for a 1984 retrospective of Mr. Penn’s work at the Museum of Modern Art, John Szarkowski, then the museum’s director of photography, wrote, “The grace, wit, and inventiveness of his pattern-making, the lively and surprising elegance of his line, and his sensitivity to the character, the idiosyncratic humors, of light make Penn’s pictures, even the slighter ones, a pleasure for our eyes.”

Irving Penn was born June 16, 1917, in Plainfield, N. J. His father, Harry, was a watchmaker and his mother, Sonia, a nurse. As a student at the Pennsylvania Museum School of Industrial Art, later to be known as the Philadelphia College of Art (and now the University of the Arts), from 1934 to 1938, Mr. Penn studied drawing, painting and graphic and industrial design. His most influential teacher was the designer Alexey Brodovitch, a Russian émigré by way of Paris who was familiar with vanguard developments in European art and design.

Although Mr. Brodovitch worked in New York City for Harper’s Bazaar, he traveled to Philadelphia on Saturdays to meet with his students and to evaluate their work. Mr. Penn’s graphic talent impressed Mr. Brodovitch, and he chose him to be his unpaid assistant at Bazaar during the summers of 1937 and 1938.

After finishing school and moving to New York, Mr. Penn worked as a free-lance designer and illustrator for Bazaar and other clients. He also bought a camera and began to photograph storefronts and signs he saw in Manhattan. In 1940 he inherited Mr. Brodovitch’s position as director of advertising design for the Saks Fifth Avenue department store, but within a year he decided to travel to Mexico and attempt a career as a painter.

Before leaving for Mexico Mr. Penn, at Mr. Brodovitch’s suggestion, offered his position at Saks to another Russian émigré designer, Alexander Liberman. Mr. Liberman declined, but by the time Mr. Penn returned to New York in 1943, with his canvases scraped totally clean, Mr. Liberman was the art director of Vogue, and he returned the younger man’s favor by offering Mr. Penn a job as his assistant.

Mr. Penn’s first assignment was to supervise the design of Vogue’s covers, and he obliged by sketching out several possible photographic scenes. Unable to interest any of the staff photographers in taking them, he took to the photo studio himself, at Mr. Liberman’s suggestion. The first result of this opportunity was a color still-life photograph of a glove, belt and pocketbook, which was published as the cover of Vogue’s Oct. 1, 1943, issue. Mr. Penn’s photographs would appear on more than 150 Vogue covers over the next 50 years.

During World War II, Mr. Penn joined the American Field Service and drove an ambulance in Italy, where he got a taste of European culture. Arriving in Rome in 1944, he spied the artist Giorgio de Chirico carrying a shopping bag of vegetables home from the market.

“I rushed up and embraced him,” Mr. Penn recalled in “Passage,” the 1991 compilation of his life’s work. “To me he was the heroic de Chirico; to him I was a total stranger, probably demented. Still, he was moved and said, come home and have lunch with us. For two days he showed me his Rome.”

During those two days Mr. Penn made his first black-and-white portraits, beginning what would become a celebrated archive of the leading artists, writers and performers of the second half of the 20th century.

Returning to Vogue in 1946 as a staff photographer, Mr. Penn went on to fill the magazine’s pages with portraits of cultural figures like Edmund Wilson and W. H. Auden, still lifes of accessories and graphic fashion photographs. His 1947 image “Twelve of the Most Photographed Models of the Period,” a group portrait, includes, at its center, Lisa Fonssagrives.

Ms. Fonssagrives would later appear in some of Mr. Penn’s most memorable fashion images, among them “Rochas ‘Mermaid Dress,’ Paris” and “Woman with Roses, Paris,” both taken in 1950, the year she became his wife.

Those pictures were made during Mr. Penn’s first assignment to photograph the Paris collections for Vogue. Using a discarded theater curtain for a backdrop and a borrowed studio filled with daylight, he choreographed some of the most spare and delicate fashion photographs yet produced, treating the clothes less as dresses to be worn than as shapes to be perceived in silhouette.

Unlike Richard Avedon, the other important new fashion photographer of the postwar period, Mr. Penn expressed himself and his subjects best through a Shaker-style restraint. In 1948, for example, he began to pose his portrait subjects by wedging them between two plain walls that met in a sharply angled vee, a scene offset only by a scrap of fraying carpet, on which subjects as prominent as Spencer Tracy, Joe Louis and the Duchess of Windsor stood, crouched or leaned.

The same year, while on assignment for Vogue in Peru, Mr. Penn ventured on his own to Cuzco and photographed the exotically dressed families who lived in the mountainous countryside, presenting them nonjudgmentally.

Two decades later he expanded on these portraits during trips to Dahomey (now called Benin), to Morocco, to New Guinea and elsewhere, using a portable studio to provide a textured but seamless background. The pictures, in color as well as black and white, were featured annually in Vogue. In 1974 they were published in a book, “Worlds in a Small Room,” which seemed to emphasize the perseverance of cultural diversity.

Mr. Penn was also capable of making Western culture seem strange and fascinating. In the early 1950s he made a series of portraits of small tradesmen (“Petit Métiers,” in French) working in Paris, London and New York. Again relying on his spare studio to separate his subjects from their surroundings, he nevertheless insisted that the tradesmen wear the clothes and tools of their work: two pastry chiefs in white aprons and toches hold rolling pins; a fishmonger carries a fish in one hand and a rag in the other.

In 1949 and 1950, Mr. Penn produced images of female nudes as a personal project, using fleshy artists’ models and focusing exclusively on their torsos. In the process of printing he attacked the light-sensitive paper with bleach and other chemicals to remove most of the skin tones, creating a rough chiaroscuro effect antithetical to then-prevailing notions of corporeal beauty. These unsettling pictures were not exhibited or published until 30 years later, in 1980, when the Marlborough Gallery mounted a show called “Earthly Bodies.” The critic Rosalind Krauss, writing in the catalog, called the nudes “a kind of privately launched and personally experienced kamikaze attack on his own public identity as a photographer of fashion.”

The quest to undercut fashion’s standards of perfection, and to find beauty in the disdained, overlooked or overripe, runs throughout Mr. Penn’s career. In an otherwise pristine still life of food, he included a house fly, and in a 1959 close-up, he placed a beetle in a model’s ear. From 1967 to 1973 he produced color essays of flowers, published each year in Vogue’s Christmas issue; in each case the blooms are past their prime, their leaves wilted, tinged with brown and falling.

Mr. Penn acquired a reputation for perfectionism at all costs. In the book “Passage,” Mr. Liberman recounts that when Mr. Penn was asked to take a picture of glasses falling from a serving tray, the photographer insisted that for authenticity’s sake Baccarat crystal be used. The art director ruefully remembered that several dozens of the glasses were shattered before the photograph was made to Mr. Penn’s standard.

In the mid-1960s, just as Mr. Penn began to be consumed by his experiments with platinum printing, fashion and fashion photography switched gears decisively. Neither his style nor his manner matched the era’s spirit of sexual liberation and spontaneous, sometimes drug-assisted creativity. The public image of a fashion photographer came to be exemplified by the anything-goes protagonist of Michelangelo Antonioni’s film “Blow Up,” played by David Hemming.

Mr. Penn observed the rebelliousness of the ’60s with a curious eye, even taking an assignment from Look magazine to photograph the “summer of love” scene in San Francisco. But his stylistic confidence seemed to falter when it came to portraying the minimally structured garments and ultra-thin models of the time. His photograph of the model Marisa Berenson, wearing a breast-plate-size peace sign and little else, suggests the photographer’s ambivalence about an era in which no clothes often seemed the preferable fashion. Not surprisingly, he concentrated on producing photographs intended to be viewed as art.

In 1975, the Museum of Modern Art in New York presented a small exhibition of his recent work printed using the platinum process: a series of greatly magnified images of cigarette butts. Transformed from gutter discards to iconic status, the mashed and bent cylinders again showed Mr. Penn’s penchant for straying far from the politesse of his fashion and portrait pictures. The cigarette butts were followed by a series focused on other forms of sidewalk debris, including flattened paper cups, deli containers and rags; these photographs, presented in platinum, were exhibited by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1977 in a show called “Street Material.”

As a result of the two museum exhibitions, Mr. Penn’s work played a significant role in the rise of photography’s fortunes in the art world. In the late 1970s and early 1980s his pictures were exhibited several times at the Marlborough Gallery in New York. In 1984 a 160-print traveling retrospective of his career was organized by Szarkowski. Since 1987 his pictures have been exhibited on a regular basis at the Pace/MacGill Gallery, which now represents his work.

Passing the age of 65 without a thought of retirement, Mr. Penn devoted himself increasingly to still-lifes, on assignments for Vogue and for advertising clients like Clinique cosmetics, and in photographs for exhibition. On his own time he constructed arrangements of bones, steel blocks and bleached animal skulls. These table-top compositions recall Dutch vanitas still-lifes as well as Giorgio Morandi paintings. At the same time, Mr. Penn produced several memorable portraits for Vogue of older artists of his own generation, like Willem de Kooning, Isamu Noguchi and Italo Calvino, and began contributing portraits to the fledgling Condé Nast magazine Vanity Fair. In 1985 he began to draw and paint again, after a hiatus of 43 years.

A collection of many of his most important images, in a variety of genres, was acquired jointly by the National Portrait Gallery and the National Museum of American Art in 1990; the museums, both branches of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, also mounted an exhibition of the collection titled “Irving Penn: Master Images.” In its first foray into modern photography, the Morgan Library & Museum in New York acquired 67 of Penn’s portraits in 2007 and exhibited them last year. Another major show opened in September at the J. Paul Getty Museum of Los Angeles.

In 1996 Mr. Penn donated the bulk of his archives and 130 of his prints to the Chicago Art Institute. An exhibition of these prints, “Irving Penn: A Career in Photography,” organized by Colin Westerbeck, opened at the Art Institute the following year and subsequently toured the country. In 2005 the National Gallery in Washington mounted a smaller retrospective of Penn’s career that consisted entirely of his platinum prints.

The critic Richard Woodward, writing in 1990, argued that Mr. Penn would be best remembered for the work he did for the museum wall, not the printed page. “The steely unity of Irving Penn’s career, the severity and constructed rigor of his work can best be appreciated when he seems to break away from the dictates of fashion for magazines,” he wrote. “Only then is it clear how everything he photographs — or, at least, prints — is the product of a remarkably undivided conscience. There are no breaks; only different subjects.”

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