David Beckham貝克漢姆,足壇文化明星。 自傳《喬治·阿瑪尼》(2015/2023) Giorgio Armani (1934~2025) 時尚界「權力西裝」大師喬治·阿瑪尼,享年91歲, Hazem el-Beblaw.
Giorgio Armani (1934~2025) 時尚界「權力西裝」大師喬治·阿瑪尼,享年91歲,有 自傳《喬治·阿瑪尼》(2015/2023)...... 喬治·阿瑪尼集團的年營業額約20億美金。
國內某大財團創始人的喪禮,全家族大小服裝之設計,就採用阿瑪尼的。
Giorgio Armani, Fashion’s Master of the Power Suit, Dies at 91
某過世友人也跟我談過穿其品牌之西裝的感覺。
He created a male uniform whose feminized form won favor with women. An alliance with movie stars made his name all but synonymous with red-carpet dressing.
A reluctant designer but an instinctive empire builder, Mr. Armani initially became a household name by adapting a custom from traditional Neapolitan tailors: softening the internal structure of a man’s suit to reveal the body inside. Simply by removing shoulder pads and canvas linings, Mr. Armani devised what in the early 1980s became a new male uniform, the easy and almost louche sensuality of which soon enough found favor among a female clientele. 阿瑪尼先生是一位不情願的設計師,但卻是一位天生的帝國締造者。他最初家喻戶曉,因為他借鑒了那不勒斯傳統裁縫的一項傳統:軟化男士西裝的內部結構,露出裡面的身材。阿瑪尼先生簡單地去掉了墊肩和帆布襯裡,就設計出了20世紀80年代初的新款男士制服,其輕鬆隨意、近乎放蕩的性感風格很快便贏得了女性顧客的青睞。
Giorgio Armani (July 11, 1934 – September 4, 2025) has passed away at the age of 91, leaving behind a timeless legacy that redefined elegance in fashion. From his revolutionary power suits to building a global empire of style, Armani shaped modern aesthetics with simplicity, precision, and grace. Rest in peace 喬治·阿瑪尼(1934年7月11日-2025年9月4日)逝世,享年91歲。他留下了重新定義時尚優雅的永恆遺產。從他革命性的權力套裝到打造全球時尚帝國,阿瑪尼以簡約、精準和優雅塑造了現代美學。願他安息🕊
他一生兩度顛覆時尚語言,不僅打造出一種屬於男性的新制服,亦讓女性找到既專業又優雅的職場著衣風格。Armani Group 透過聲明中證實他的死訊,並指出他「直到生命最後一刻都未停下工作」。
Giorgio Armani 為時尚界所留下的,並非只是幾套經典西裝或紅毯造型。他教會我們,真正的力量,往往來自無需刻意強調的穩定與自持。就像他一生未婚、堅持低調、不上市,也不賣掉品牌——這樣的執著與簡約,也是一種極致奢華。
Giorgio Armani, Fashion’s Master of the Power Suit, Dies at 91
He created a male uniform whose feminized form won favor with women. An alliance with movie stars made his name all but synonymous with red-carpet dressing.
Mr. Armani initially became a household name by adapting the custom of traditional Neapolitan tailors of softening the internal structure of a man’s suit to reveal the body inside. The style soon found favor among a female clientele.Credit...Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times
“Armani is one of those, like Coco Chanel with the little black dress, as important for what he contributed socially through dress as for what he specifically designed,” said Harold Koda, a former head curator of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art who was a curator, with Germano Celant, of an Armani retrospective at the Guggenheim Museum in New York in 2000.
「阿瑪尼就像可可·香奈兒的小黑裙一樣,他透過服裝為社會做出的貢獻與他設計的服裝一樣重要,」
Mr. Armani, left, with the actors Lauren Hutton and Richard Gere in 2003 at the Royal Academy of Arts in London, which hosted an exhibition dedicated to the designer’s career.Credit...Richard Lewis/Associated Press
Movies were Mr. Armani’s first love. He often attended them with his father, finding in the darkened cinema his one reliable means of escape from the terrors of life in wartime Italy. Early in life, these were anything but remote abstractions; when Allied forces began a concerted bombing campaign in 1940, strafing Italy north to south from Turin to Naples, his family home was struck by a shell.
Though the family emerged unscathed, Mr. Armani was severely injured shortly after the end of the war when a live mine detonated on a street near his home and set him ablaze. He was not yet 10.
He eventually recovered, the single visible reminder of the incident a scar where a shoe had burned into his foot. As a result of the experience, he would later set his mind on pursuing a career in medicine, which he had come to view as a noble and selfless profession.
Image
Mr. Armani published his autobiography in 2015. “Per Amore,” an extended version, was published in 2023.Credit...Rizzoli
“A.J. Cronin’s books about being a country doctor made a deep impression on me,” he wrote in his autobiography, titled simply “Giorgio Armani” (2015). “I loved the idea of a person who saved the lives of the elderly and the young alike.”
他出現在《Vogue》上的幾率和出現在《體育畫報》(Sports Illustrated)上的幾率一樣,出現在內衣廣告中的受歡迎程度與穿足球隊服時相同。工薪階層和同性戀粉絲都對他喜愛有加。他的妻子曾是辣妹(Spice Girls)組合的成員,而他精確的傳球以及弧線任意球催生了一部名為《我愛貝克漢姆》(Bend It Like Beckham)的電影,成為掙脫社會束縛的一個隱喻。
來自英國的《足球經濟學》(Soccernomics)合著者、密歇根大學(University of Michigan)運動管理學教授斯蒂芬·希曼斯基 (Stefan Szymanski)稱,「大衛碧咸就是足球加性;這是世界上最有賣點的兩樣東西,不是嗎?」
「可以說,他的品牌對足球的影響力比歷史上其他任何運動員
都大,可能只有貝利(Pelé)除外,」哈佛商學院(Harvard Business School)體育管理專家史蒂芬·A·格雷瑟(Stephen
A. Greyser)教授說。「他可能會退出賽場,但卻不會退出足壇,不會退出自己的品牌。他的影響力肯定會持續下去。」
Philippe Desmazes/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
David Beckham of Paris Saint-Germain during a French L1 football match in March.
When David Beckham broke a
bone in his left foot before the 2002 World Cup, Tony Blair, then the
British Prime Minister, interrupted a cabinet meeting to express his
concern about England’s suddenly uncertain chances. Tabloid newspapers
ran photos of Beckham’s injured foot on Page 1 and asked readers to lay
their hands on the picture in an attempt at mass civic healing.
On Thursday, Beckham
announced his impending retirement from soccer at 38, never the best
player in the world but unsurpassed in his era as a cultural phenomenon.
The sport has long had
global stars, but none whose careers emerged so fortuitously at the
nexus of technology, reality television and celebrity culture. Beckham
was the athlete with the most crossover appeal at the moment when
everyone could watch together, online or via satellite.
Beckham was not merely an
athlete; he was an international brand that smartly fused a handsomeness
that bordered on beauty with athleticism, marketing savvy and an eager
embrace of the role of pop idol, unsurpassed in his era as a cultural
phenomenon.
He was as likely to appear
in Vogue as in Sports Illustrated. He was as popular appearing in
underwear advertisements as in a soccer uniform. He was appreciated by
working-class fans as well as gay fans. His wife was a member of the Spice Girls, and his precise passes and curling free kicks inspired a film, “Bend It Like Beckham,” serving as a metaphor for triumph over social restriction.
“David Beckham is soccer
plus sex; those are the only two things that sell in the world, aren’t
they?” said Stefan Szymanski, a British co-author of the book “Soccernomics” and a professor of sports management at the University of Michigan.
“What Beckham sold was
athleticism or soccer to straight men and sex to women and gay men,”
Szymanski said. “He did that rather spectacularly well. I’m guessing
he’s the prettiest player the game has ever had. He’s the Marilyn Monroe
of soccer. Everybody would want to be next to David Beckham.”
Despite his looks and
talent and adulation, though, Beckham was not a prima donna on the
field. He was considered to have given everything for his club teams and
the England national team, winning titles with some of the world’s most
popular clubs, Manchester United of England’s Premier League, Real
Madrid of Spain’s La Liga and Paris St.-Germain of France’s Ligue 1.
His name and reputation
alone brought newfound international respect for professional soccer in
the United States during his six seasons and two championships with the
Los Angeles Galaxy of Major League Soccer.
And, in the era of the
Internet and satellite television, Beckham’s career proved hugely
influential in the swelling interest of European soccer in Asia and
elsewhere around the globe.
“I don’t think it’s unfair
to say he put M.L.S. on the map,” said Bruce Arena, who coached Beckham
to two league titles with the Galaxy. “And he’s certainly one of the
chief people responsible for worldwide attention of the game. He’s one
of the most competitive people I ever coached. As he got to the end of
his career, he didn’t have the legs he wanted to have, but he had a
bigger heart than anyone on the field.”
Beckham, who made 115
appearances with the English national team, did have his less felicitous
moments. Infamously, he committed an impetuous foul that got him
ejected from a 1998 World Cup match against Argentina. And Landon
Donovan, the American star and former teammate with the Galaxy,
criticized Beckham’s early commitment to M.L.S. in a book called “The Beckham Experiment” by Grant Wahl, a senior writer at Sports Illustrated.
Still, Beckham’s global appeal went undiminished.
“I think he’s the most
famous athlete in the world,” Wahl said. While a similar claim could be
made about the soccer star Lionel Messi, the Olympic sprinting champion
Usain Bolt and the golfer Tiger Woods, Wahl said: “Beckham has a
celebrity component the other guys don’t. There’s a multiplier effect.
If you play the old game, ‘How many people on earth recognize this
sports star?’ I think Beckham is recognized by more people than anyone
else.”
Beckham’s worldwide reach often seemed limitless.
In Tokyo, a chocolate Beckham statue
that stood nearly 10 feet tall was featured in a downtown department
store after the 2002 World Cup. In Australia, mere speculation that
Beckham might be interested in playing in the country’s league prompted
wealthy businessmen to consider helping finance what would have surely
been an outrageously expensive transfer.
In China — where Beckham’s
nickname is Xiao Bei, or Little Becks — Beckham signed a contract
reportedly worth as much as $75 million simply to be an ambassador for
its scandal-plagued league. (During his first appearance in March,
Beckham — wearing a suit and tie — slipped and fell when he attempted a
free kick at a public relations event, taking a tumble that led to
YouTube views around the world).
“Arguably, his brand has
made more impact on football than any other player in history, with the
possible exception of Pelé,” said Stephen A. Greyser, a sports
management expert and professor at Harvard Business School. “He may be
retiring from the pitch, but he’s not retiring from football and he’s
not retiring from his brand. His impact will surely go on.”
Beckham’s brand, perhaps
more than any other athlete, was himself. While Michael Jordan will
always be linked with Nike, Beckham’s business associations ran a
spectacularly wide gamut: when he arrived in the United States in 2007,
he already had agreements with Adidas, Gillette, Motorola, Pepsi and
Walt Disney, and added partnerships with Giorgio Armani, Sharpie, Yahoo,
Electronic Arts, Samsung, Burger King, Sainsbury and Breitling at
various times during his stay in the United States. He also launched an
underwear line with H&M.
Beckham’s role in raising
global awareness of soccer in the United States is undeniable. During
Beckham’s first year with the Galaxy, the club’s revenue rose as much as
40 percent, according to Navigate, a sports and entertainment research
company.
Part of Beckham’s appeal,
of course, is that branding is a family business. When Beckham launched
his cologne in 2005, he did it with the company that also licenses his
wife Victoria’s perfumes. The couple then launched a joint fragrance
line, Intimately Beckham, a year later. Even Beckham’s 1 son, Romeo, 10,
is involved in pushing the family brand as he was featured in a recent
advertising campaign for Burberry.
“If you had told me as a
young boy I would have played for and won trophies with my boyhood club
Manchester United, proudly captained and played for my country over one
hundred times and lined up for some of the biggest clubs in the world, I
would have told you it was a fantasy,” Beckham said in a statement. “I’m fortunate to have realized those dreams.”
17 May 2013
Last updated at
15:55 GMT
7.1K
David Beckham not even in top 1,000 players - Waddle
Former England winger Chris Waddle says David Beckham is not one of the top 1,000 players of the last 40 years.
The ex-Manchester United midfielder
is retiring
at the end of the season.
"I would say he has been a good player, I wouldn't put him down as a great," Waddle, 52, told BBC Radio 5 live.
"You can go down a list of players from the Premier
League or the 70s or 80s, whatever you want to do. I'll be honest,
Beckham probably wouldn't be in the first 1,000."
Beckham v Waddle
Beckham
Waddle
England caps
115
62
Major English trophies
8
0
Major European trophies
1
0
League titles
10
3
Beckham, 38, who signed a
five-month deal at Paris St-Germain
in January, joined Manchester United as a trainee in 1991, making
his first-team debut the following year and signing his first
professional contract in 1993.
He went on to make 394 appearances for United, winning
six Premier League titles and the Champions League, and 115 for England.
"I think there have been a lot more talented players in
the world. But he made the most of what he has got," said Waddle, who
made more 100 appearances for four of his clubs - Newcastle, Tottenham,
Marseille and Sheffield Wednesday - while winning 62 England caps.
"He has got a terrific image and used it very well. He
never had a trick, wasn't particularly quick, but he was very good at
set-pieces and deliveries, he made chances and made goals and was
fantastic for clubs.
"He said the right things, he sold shirts, he put money in the tills wherever he went and conducted himself well."
Beckham became one of the world's most high-profile
sportsmen during his time at Old Trafford - and a global celebrity
following his marriage to Spice Girl Victoria Adams in 1999.
He signed for
Real Madrid
in 2003 and won a La Liga title in 2007 before switching to the United States with
Los Angeles Galaxy.
He also spent time on loan at AC Milan.
"As a player I would say he was a fantastic crosser of
the ball, a great athlete," said Waddle. "Now people will be talking
about him and saying 'How great, how great'. I would say 'how good'.
"I would not say he was a great. He was very good at his job, he worked very hard as a professional footballer."
Manchester United manager-in-waiting
David Moyes,
preparing to lead Everton for the final time, has added to the
tributes paid to Beckham
since his announcement on Thursday.
"He's been a great player, a tremendous ambassador. I
think everyone who is English is tremendously proud of what David
Beckham has done over the years and how he has conducted himself," said
the Scot.
"I was very fortunate to play with David when he came
to Preston North End, he was a great lad then, very humble and really
just wanted to play.
"Everybody who was part of that team [at Preston] still
remembers him and still wants to talk about how they played in a team
with David Beckham. I'm no different."
Carlo Ancelotti,
Beckham's current manager at PSG, said: "The football world lost a
fantastic player, lost a fantastic professional, lost a good man. It's
the right decision because he decided to stop and not other people
[telling him to stop].
"We have to respect his decision.
"It's not my business to find a role for David. He's
going to speak with the club and if they decide to give him a new
position, it is up to David and the club."
Beckham
trained with Arsenal
in January, and when asked if he was interested in signing Beckham, Gunners boss
Arsene Wenger
said: "Yes, I was. It was at a period when I couldn't afford him.
And after that there was a question mark before he went to Milan, but it
was a position we didn't really need.
"It was always a pleasure to have him here because of his attitude and behaviour. He gained respect from everybody.
"No matter how strong a player he is, what remains in
your memory is his genuine commitment and dedication and the natural
humility which he always had. That will stay forever."
QPR manager
Harry Redknapp
was in charge at Tottenham when Beckham trained with Spurs in 2011.
He said: "He was down to earth, everybody loved him, he treated
everybody with great respect and he had time for everyone. He's had a
fantastic career and is an absolute top-class fella.
"He's been a great role model for any young footballer."
David Beckham's most memorable moments
WIMBLEDON GOAL - 17 AUGUST, 1996
David
Beckham announced himself to the football world when he scored from the
halfway line for Manchester United against Wimbledon.
In United's opening match of the season at Selhurst Park, the midfielder spotted goalkeeper
Neil Sullivan
off his line to score a famous goal in United's 3-0 victory.
Former Wimbledon goalkeeper Sullivan told
BBC Radio 5 live:
"He just picked it up and hit it. I just realised it was going
beyond me and it dropped [under] the crossbar and that was it. The whole
Manchester United team at the time were special but I didn't expect
anything like that. I made that boy... but I still think he would have
done all right without me!"
ENGLAND v ARGENTINA - 30 JUNE, 1998
England lost on penalties to Argentina during the World
Cup in 1998 after a 2-2 draw in St Etienne, which saw a wonder goal
from Michael Owen and David Beckham's infamous red card after he kicked
out at Diego Simeone.
Former England team-mate
Alan Shearer
told BBC Sport on Thursday: "You have to have character as a
footballer. When you have your downs you have to show how strong a
character you are and he did that after the World Cup in 1998."
MANCHESTER UNITED TREBLE WIN - 26 MAY, 1999
After Manchester United's Premier League title victory
and FA Cup final win over Newcastle, a Champions League title followed
on a most memorable night
at the Nou Camp.
United's 2-1 win over Bayern Munich included
injury-time goals from Teddy Sheringham and Ole Gunnar Solskjaer, both
from Beckham corners.
Former Manchester United and England defender
Phil Neville told BBC Sport
on Thursday: "David Beckham - what an unbelievable career. Four
titles in four countries, over 100 caps for England and the best
ambassador this country has had."
BECOMING ENGLAND CAPTAIN - 15 NOVEMBER, 2000
Beckham was handed the England armband for the first
time after caretaker manager Peter Taylor omitted Tony Adams and Martin
Keown for England's 1-0 friendly defeat by Italy.
Under previous coach Kevin Keegan, the Manchester
United midfielder had been appointed vice-captain in the absence of Sol
Campbell.
Beckham
told BBC Sport in 2000:
"This is one of the proudest moments of my football career. It's
always been a big ambition of mine. As a kid I used to dream about
leading my country and now it is going to happen."
GREECE GOAL - 6 OCTOBER, 2001
Beckham led by example against Greece in 2001 when his curling last-gasp free-kick
sent England to the 2002 World Cup finals,
where they were beaten by Brazil in the quarter-finals.
Former England manager
Sven-Goran Eriksson
told BBC Sport on 16 May that Beckham's winner against Greece was
his personal highlight of the midfielder's career. "David had missed
many free-kicks during that game but was mentally very strong to take it
when it was almost overtime, and he scored."
WORLD CUP PENALTY V ARGENTINA - 7 JUNE, 2002
David Beckham fired England's winner from the penalty
spot as they beat Argentina 1-0 in the group stages of the 2002 World
Cup in Japan, and the goal seemed to rub out the memory of the
sending-off in 1998.
Chief football reporter
Phil McNulty
said at the time: "If England rode their luck in the face of an
inevitable second-half revival from Argentina, who is to say they did
not finally deserve it after Diego Maradona's 'Hand of God' in 1986 and
the desperate exit on penalties at France 98?"
David Beckham
made peace with Manchester United boss Sir Alex Ferguson
in early 2003 after a dressing room argument left him with a cut above his eye.
Beckham described the incident at the time - in which Ferguson
accidentally kicked a football boot against his face
- as "just one of those things".
Ferguson said in 2003: "I have spent 29 years as a
coach and what happens in the dressing room is sacrosanct. There is no
problem and we move on. That is all there is to say."
JOINING REAL MADRID - 18 JUNE, 2003
David Beckham
agreed a four-year contract
with Spanish giants Real Madrid for a fee of £24.5m from Manchester United.
Beckham's future at the time was the source of intense
media speculation after his dressing room clash with Ferguson, with a
number of top clubs including Barcelona, AC and Inter Milan interested
in capturing the player.
Former Real Madrid president
Ramon Calderon
told
BBC Radio 5 live:
"I have very good memories of the years he spent here. He was very professional with impeccable behaviour."
BECKHAM STEPS ASIDE AS ENGLAND CAPTAIN - 2 JULY, 2006
An emotional David Beckham
stepped down as England skipper
after holding the role for six years following England's World Cup exit against Portugal in Germany.
The midfielder said at the time: "I feel the time is
right to pass on the armband as we enter a new era under new coach Steve
McClaren."
LA GALAXY DEAL - 12 JANUARY, 2007
David Beckham
left Real Madrid
to join Major League Soccer side LA Galaxy at the end of the Spanish season in 2007.
The then 31-year-old signed a five-year deal,
reportedly worth £128m between his salary, existing sponsorship
contracts, merchandising shirt sales and a share of the club profits.
Beckham said on Thursday: "It is every athlete's dream
to go out on top form or winning a trophy; it doesn't happen very often.
I have been very lucky - winning the league with Manchester United,
then at Real Madrid, at LA Galaxy and now PSG."
LONDON OLYMPICS - 27 JULY, 2012
David Beckham
made a spectacular entrance
at the London 2012 Olympic opening ceremony, transporting the Olympic torch to the Olympic Stadium via a speedboat.
After Beckham played
a key role in London being awarded the Games in 2005
an estimated 900 million people watched as the boat sped down the
River Thames synchronised to a massive pyrotechnic display that included
a curtain of fire descending from Tower Bridge.
Beckham told BBC Sport in July 2012: "To have an
Olympic Games in London is amazing but to have it in an area where I
grew up, I'm very proud to have been part of that for the last eight
years."
DAVID BECKHAM JOINS PARIS ST-GERMAIN - 31 JANUARY, 2013
David Beckham said he was "excited and honoured" to
join French Ligue 1 side Paris St-Germain and immediately announced that
he would be donating his wages to charity.
The former England captain signed a five-month deal with the club after leaving LA Galaxy at the end of the MLS season.
Beckham said on Thursday: "I'm thankful to PSG for giving me the opportunity to continue but I feel now is the
right time to finish my career,
playing at the highest level."
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