330 當天有50萬人上凱道反服貿，在前一天，總統馬英九在總統府針對學運召開記者會，宣稱要回應學生提出的「兩岸協議監督機制法制化」等4項訴求。在馬英九召 開記者會的同時，議場內的小房間，包括總指揮林飛帆、中研院副研究員黃國昌、律師賴中強、世新大學社會發展研究所助理教授蔡培慧與學生幹部們則緊盯一台小 電視，關注馬英九的記者會，同時看著手機，以了解輿情與社會回應。
Time for a Cabinetmaker
LONDON — Walnut, birch and Crimean juniper are hardly the most sought-after materials for watchmakers. But wood is at the very heart of the timepieces manufactured by Valerii Danevych.
This 46-year-old craftsman grew up in a family of cabinetmakers in Kiev, the Ukrainian capital. But after an early career that closely followed his grandfather’s profession, Mr. Danevych decided to put his skills as a precision joiner and his affinity for miniatures to entirely different use. Already familiar with restoring clock cases, he took an interest in the movements inside them.
“I didn’t receive any training in watchmaking,” Mr. Danevych wrote in an email. “I learned watchmaking exclusively in practice by experiments.” He mastered his trade step by step until 2007, when he completed a weight-driven pendulum clock with a power reserve of two days, made entirely of wood.
His proudest achievement so far is the Retrograde, presented at the Baselworld watch fair last year. In a case of dark wooden tones, this men’s wristwatch boasts a flying one-minute tourbillon and fly back time display, or hands that are arranged on a semicircle and jump back.
The watch contains more than 150 components, the smallest of which is a pinion of made of Crimean box wood, just shy of a millimeter wide.
It caught the attention of the board of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, a select club of watchmakers in Switzerland, which nominated him as a candidate for membership.
“To make a tourbillon in the traditional way from metal is already a challenge, but to make it from wood, it is even more difficult,” Kari Voutilainen, who handles candidacies at the Académie, wrote in an email. “The work is done with care and with skill, nice to see and touch,” he said of the Retrograde.
A self-taught watchmaker, Mr. Danevych displays constant innovation in his work. Lately, he has been experimenting with metal parts, decorated with engravings. This year in Basel he will show two new models, the “Chillon Castle” and the “Galleon.” Both timepieces feature marquetry-decorated dials and fine wood cases enclosing Swiss-made movements.
“Wood is a natural material with broad features,” said Mr. Danevych, noting that it was used in the making of the first automobiles and aircraft. Fashioning tiny, precise watch parts out of wood rather than metal is a complex challenge; but he gauges the strength and density of different species and matches each component separately to the characteristics of a suitable wood to reduce friction and increase durability.
For moving parts, he prefers hard woods. Lignum vitae, also known as ironwood, for instance, has excellent wear resistance and contains natural oils that provide self-lubrication, making it a favored material for propeller shaft bearings on ships. For cases, wrist bands and decorations, he often uses fruit tree burls.
“If one inserts wooden parts in a metal movement, it quickly fails,” he said. “But if all the parts are made from wood then the factor of wear and tear in time approaches the time of wear and tear from metal parts.”
Watches made entirely of wood are rare among Swiss makers. But the art of wooden watchmaking has long roots in Germany and Russia.
One of Mr. Danevych’s sources of inspiration is the Bronnikov family.
For several generations during the 19th to 20th centuries, the Bronnikovs made all-wood, all-bone and all-ivory pocket watches in the Russian city of Kirov, then known as Vyatka. Their timepieces are on display at the Armory Chamber in the Kremlin in Moscow and at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg. They appear occasionally at auction.
Manufacturing the parts used in movements individually can take time. The Retrograde, for example took 1,800 working hours to complete.
“At first it was only a leisure activity to which I devoted all my time,” said Mr. Danevych. “And now there are people who want to buy my watches, so this is my job now.”
Each piece is necessarily unique, a fact that his clients value, he said. Pricing, a topic that Mr. Danevych was reluctant to talk about, depends on the complexity of each watch and the time that it takes to build.
While his work has garnered little interest yet at home, it is winning fans in Western markets like Germany, he said.