2015年11月7日 星期六

Yves Carcelle, Friedrich Wilhelm Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt


Alexander von Humboldt had an insatiable curiosity for the natural world, a "perpetual drive" for knowledge that felt as if he was being chased by "10,000 pigs". Andrea Wulf's new book argues that he was the greatest scientist of the 19th century

Why a Prussian scientific visionary should be studied afresh
ECON.ST



“I have always admired him," said Charles Darwin, "now I worship him.” Alexander von Humboldt, who pioneered the science now used to study climate change, was born on September 14th 1769. From the archive: http://econ.st/1KakPQ4


AMID this year's flurry of scientific jubilees, one seems to have passed largely unnoticed. On May 6th admirers celebrated the 150th anniversary of the death of...
ECON.ST




Naturalist and geographer Alexander von Humboldt was born‪#‎onthisday‬ in 1769. Here's a drawing of him from the collectionhttp://ow.ly/B3LJV
Friedrich Wilhelm Heinrich Alexander von Humboldt (About this sound listen ; September 14, 1769 – May 6, 1859) was a Prussian geographernaturalist, and explorer, and the younger brother of the Prussian minister, philosopher and linguist Wilhelm von Humboldt(1767–1835). Humboldt's quantitative work on botanical geography laid the foundation for the field of biogeography.
Between 1799 and 1804, Humboldt travelled extensively in Latin America, exploring and describing it for the first time from a modern scientific point of view. His description of the journey was written up and published in an enormous set of volumes over 21 years. He was one of the first to propose that the lands bordering the Atlantic Ocean were once joined (South America and Africa in particular). Later, his five-volume work, Kosmos(1845), attempted to unify the various branches of scientific knowledge. Humboldt supported and worked with other scientists, including Joseph-Louis Gay-LussacJustus von LiebigLouis AgassizMatthew Fontaine MauryGeorg von Neumayer, and most notably, Aimé Bonpland, with whom he conducted much of his scientific exploration.


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路易威登前首席執行官伊夫·卡塞勒去世

伊夫·卡塞勒,攝於2003年。
Martin Bureau/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
伊夫·卡塞勒,攝於2003年。

巴黎——伊夫·卡塞勒(Yves Carcelle)是一位富於領袖魅力的執行官,曾一手將路易威登從古板的法國手包和旅行箱製造商改造為世界最為知名的奢侈品牌之一。他於周日在巴黎逝世,享年66歲。
路易威登的母公司LVMH酩悅·軒尼詩-路易·威登集團在周一發佈聲明確認死訊,並沒有公布死亡原因。據法國新聞媒體報道,卡塞勒去年被查出患有腎癌。
卡塞勒於1990年被提升為路易威登的首席執行官,後來又掌管LVMH公司的時尚部門,他是公司在亞洲與其他國際市場大規模擴張的總設計師,令印有路易威登招牌的LV標識的皮具成為時尚界最令人垂涎的身份象徵之一。
1997年,他招來馬克·雅可布(Marc Jacobs)為路易威登設計鞋履和成衣,此外還為路易威登增添了腕錶、珠寶和配飾系列。
「他把生命獻給了這裡,」雅可佈於周一在紐約說,「他知道這是一個巨大的公司,他正在建設它,但他也從沒忘記這是他喜愛的事業,是一件做起來有趣的事情。正是這一點讓他如此與眾不同。」
卡塞勒於1989年作為戰略領導者加盟LVMH,1990年,他當上路易威登的主席和首席執行官,當時公司的名字還叫路易威登馬利蒂(Louis Vuitton Malletier)。1998年,他開始主管LVMH時尚集團,不僅經管路易威登,還要負責其他許多著名品牌,包括羅意威(Loewe)、賽琳(Céline)、紀梵希(Givenchy)、唐納·卡蘭(Donna Karan)、高田賢三(Kenzo)、伯魯提(Berluti)、芬迪(Fendi)和托馬斯·平克(Thomas Pink)。2002年,身為時尚界領袖的他後退一步,轉而專註於路易威登的發展。
在卡塞勒的領導之下,路易威登的門店增長了一倍,達到1300家,遍布世界50多個國家,公司收入幾乎增長了10倍,達到將近100億歐元,或130億美元。路易威登一直是LVMH這個法國奢侈品巨頭的主要收入來源,其收入占集團時裝與皮具銷售收入的2/3還多。
卡塞勒於1948年5月18日出生於巴黎。大學時主修數學,在法國精英學府巴黎理工大學和歐洲工商管理學院取得學位。他的事業生涯從並不光鮮亮麗的家庭清潔產品和聚氨酯泡沫開始,和LVMH華麗的廳堂可謂天差地別。他在這些行業中的一系列公司里擔任市場營銷和產品管理工作。後來去了伊莎堡服裝公司,隨後又擔任法國高端家紡製造商戴斯坎普(Descamps)公司的總裁。
2012年,他從路易威登退休,繼任者西班牙商人若爾迪·康斯坦斯(Jordi Constans)一個月後便因健康原因辭職。最終這個職務由法裔美國商人,LVMH集團任職多年的高管邁克爾·伯克(Michael Burke)接任至今。
今年年初之前,卡塞勒一直是路易威登創意基金的副總裁,這是一座價值數千萬美元的博物館,位於巴黎郊區,由弗蘭克·蓋瑞(Frank Gehry)設計,將展出LVMH集團收藏的眾多當代藝術。該館計劃於下月開館。卡塞勒還是LVMH集團總裁伯納德·阿諾特(Bernard Arnault)的顧問,也是法國奢侈品行業遊說團法國精品行業聯合會(Comité Colbert)的成員。
2004年,卡塞勒因其對法國文化生活的貢獻而受封法國榮譽軍團騎士。
「他能在看清大局的同時關注最小的細節,」阿諾特的兒子安托尼(Antoine)在電子郵件中說,他曾在路易威登與卡塞勒密切合作。「這種左腦與右腦的完美合作只有頂尖管理者才能具備。」
安托尼·阿諾特現在是伯魯提品牌的首席執行官,他還說:「他的魅力與領導才能無與倫比。此外,他也是兇狠的談判對手,你絕不想擋他的路。」
據《女裝日報》(Women's Wear Daily)報道,卡塞勒尚在世的親人包括妻子麗貝卡(Rebecca)以及他們的兩個兒子,還有他上一次婚姻中的三個孩子。
Vanessa Friedman於紐約對本文有報道貢獻。
翻譯:董楠


Yves Carcelle, former chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton, died yesterday (Sunday 31 August), aged 66.
The French businessman had been battling with a rare form of kidney cancer.
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH, the company that owns the luxury fashion house, issued the following statement:
 “It is with great sadness and emotion that I learned of the death of Yves Carcelle, a tireless traveller,” he wrote. “Yves was the image of the house that he so long embodied: A pioneer, always curious, passionate, on the move. He was one of the most inspiring leaders I have ever met. LVMH today lost one its dearest friends.”
He joined Louis Vuitton in 1989 as strategic director, becoming chairman and CEO in 1990. He was instrumental in hiring Marc Jacobs as creative director in 1997, who was then only an emerging designer but went onto launch ready-to-wear as a product category.
Among his achievements for the label was Carcelle’s decision to launch eyewear and fine jewellery. Along with Jacobs, he was responsible for helping turn the brand into one of LVMH’s most lucrative and famous fashion brands.
In 2012, he was replaced as CEO by Jordi Constans, instead taking the role as vice chairman of art museum Fondation Louis Vuitton - which will open in October in Paris. He also remained as an LVMH executive board member.
Carcelle is survived by his wife, Rebecca, and his five children.

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