2026年1月1日 星期四

莉莉·艾爾茜(Lily Elsie)。這個把病弱美變成商業密碼的女人,在汽車還沒普及的年代,已學會用鎂光燈當武器; 愛德華時代的“活體芭比”。 時尚風向標和時尚偶像Jacqueline de Ribes (杰奎琳·德·裡貝斯逝世,享年96歲) “每年12月舉行的Met Gala上,每個人都會站在大廳裡等待她的到來。她總是穿著最精緻、最出人意料的伊夫·聖羅蘭高級訂製禮服。” Jordan Peterson, 《超越秩序:生活的 12 條更多規則》2021《生活的12 條規則:混沌的解藥》,其中以比他之前出版的作品更容易理解的方式討論了自助原則。


//愛德華時代的“活體芭比”
她是1907年讓整個倫敦堵車的“風流寡婦”,是香奈兒抄襲過的初代時尚,更是用一場婚禮逼瘋狗仔隊的現象級頂流——莉莉·艾爾茜(Lily Elsie)。這個把病弱美變成商業密碼的女人,在汽車還沒普及的年代,已學會用鎂光燈當武器。//

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1953年的傑奎琳·德·裡貝斯。她為自己和一些社會名流客戶設計服裝。圖片來源:Horst P. Horst/Condé Nast,經由Getty Images

時尚風向標和時尚偶像杰奎琳·德·裡貝斯逝世,享年96歲

在時尚界,她是少數真正稱得上偶像的人之一。早在成為設計師之前,她就以穿著打扮力求給人留下深刻印象。

1953年的傑奎琳·德·裡貝斯。她為自己和一些社會名流客戶設計服裝。圖片來源:

她不僅因其時尚事業而聞名,也因其塑造的形象而廣為人知。她對此毫不掩飾。 “盛裝打扮,”她曾說過,“並不意味著輕浮;它與輕浮毫無關係。”

圖片:一張黑白照片,照片中是中年時期的杰奎琳·德·裡貝斯,她留著深色頭髮,身穿無袖晚禮服,佩戴垂墜耳環,站在另一位身穿晚禮服的女士和一位繫著黑色領結的男士旁邊。

照片左側是德·裡貝斯女士,右側是她的丈夫愛德華·德·裡貝斯,以及梅麗爾·朗萬,攝於1977年巴黎大酒店。圖片來源:Guy Marineau/WWD,經由Penske Media,經由Getty Images。

Jacqueline de Ribes in 1953. She designed clothes for herself and for a socially prominent clientele.Credit...Horst P. Horst/Condé Nast, via Getty Images

Jacqueline de Ribes, Tastemaker and Fashion Avatar, Dies at 96

One of few people in the world of style who could legitimately claim the status of icon, she dressed to impress even before she became a designer.


Jacqueline de Ribes in 1953. She designed clothes for herself and for a socially prominent clientele.Credit...

As widely known for the image she projected as for her fashion career, she made no excuses. “Dressing up,” she once said, “doesn’t mean that you are frivolous; it has nothing to do with frivolity.”

ImageA black-and-white photo of a middle-aged Jacqueline de Ribes with dark hair, wearing a sleeveless evening gown and drop earrings, standing next to another woman in an evening gown and a man in black tie.
Ms. de Ribes, left, with her husband, Edouard de Ribes, and Meryl Lanvin in 1977 at Le Grand Hotel in Paris.Credit...Guy Marineau/WWD, via Penske Media, via Getty Images


時尚混搭女王


無論是在芭蕾舞首演的舞台上,還是在奧地利聖安東、法國梅傑夫或瑞士採爾馬特的阿爾卑斯山坡上,德·裡貝斯女士都以令人印象深刻的著裝著稱。在採爾馬特,她尤其鍾愛與服裝顏色相配的超大狐狸皮帽。 「有時她會穿著彷彿從薩金特畫作中走出來的服裝來家裡接待我,」瓦倫蒂諾曾這樣說道。


時尚編輯兼電視名人安德烈·萊昂·塔利回憶道:“每年12月舉行的Met Gala上,每個人都會站在大廳裡等待她的到來。她總是穿著最精緻、最出人意料的伊夫·聖羅蘭高級訂製禮服。”


然而,首先,德·裡貝斯女士將自己視為藝術家。身為時尚混搭女王,她深知自己擁有即興創作和巧妙搭配的天賦。

Ms. de Ribes emphatically dressed to impress. “Sometimes she would receive me at home wearing something right out of a Sargent painting,” Valentino once said.

The fashion editor and television personality André Leon Talley recalled: “Everyone used to stand in the great hall and wait for her arrival at the Met Ball when it was held in December. She would have on the most exquisite, and unexpected, Yves Saint Laurent couture.”

First and foremost, however, Ms. de Ribes saw herself as an artist. Queen of the sartorial mash-up, she was well aware of her gifts for improvisation and bricolage.


A pencil sketch of a woman wearing long black gloves and a dramatic hat.
Sketches for Ms. de Ribes’s fashion designs
from the 1980s.
Credit...Illustrations by Nino Caprioglio
Image
A pencil sketch of a woman wearing a short evening gown with a flouncy skirt.
Credit...Illustrations by Nino Caprioglio



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Z世代、上帝、喬登彼得森、性與不成長有什麼共通點?我很想聽聽你的回答。當然,我的是《經濟學人》的文化版塊。所有這些主題都出現在我們今年閱讀量最大的一些故事中。


我們試圖以更廣泛的視角來看待可能吸引讀者的文化趨勢和主題。今年是了不起的一年:例如,我們研究年輕人是否以及為何拒絕長大的文章是《經濟學人》2024 年閱讀量排名第三的文章。有益的時間來靜修並補上一些期待已久的閱讀。這是您可能錯過的文化亮點的便捷指南。


圖書

1999 年,勞特利奇出版了《意義地圖:信仰的架構》,其中彼得森描述了一種關於人們如何建構意義、形成信念和進行敘事的理論。根據彼得森的說法,他的主要目標是研究為什麼個人和群體都參與社會衝突,探索個人支持他們的信仰體系(即意識形態認同)[8] 的推理和動機,這最終可能導致謀殺和病態的暴行,如古拉格、奧斯威辛集中營和盧安達種族滅絕。


2018 年1 月,企鵝蘭登書屋出版了彼得森的第二本書《生活的12 條規則:混沌的解藥》,其中以比他之前出版的作品更容易理解的方式討論了自助原則。 14][19][37 ]該書出現在多個暢銷書排行榜上。


彼得森的第三本書《超越秩序:生活的 12 條更多規則》於 2021 年 3 月 2 日發行。 2020 年 11 月 23 日,他的出版商加拿大企鵝蘭登書屋 (PRH Canada) 舉行了一次內部市政廳,許多員工批評了出版該書的決定。


彼得森的第四本書《與上帝摔角的人:對神聖的看法》於 2024 年 11 月 19 日再次由企鵝蘭登書屋出版。



Alexandra Suich Bass
Culture editor

What do Generation Z, God, Jordan Peterson, sex and not growing up have in common? I’d be curious to hear your answer. Mine is, of course, the Culture section of The Economist. All these subjects have featured in some of our most-read stories of the year.

We try to take a broad view of cultural trends and subjects that are likely to fascinate readers. And it has been a terrific year: our piece examining whether, and why, young adults are refusing to grow up, for example, was the third-most-read piece published by The Economist in 2024. If your holiday season is anything like mine, this can be a rewarding time to retreat and catch up on some long-anticipated reading. Here’s a handy guide to the Culture highlights you may have missed.

Books

In 1999, Routledge published Maps of Meaning: The Architecture of Belief, in which Peterson describes a theory about how people construct meaning, form beliefs, and make narratives.[8][34][35] According to Peterson, his main goal was to examine why individuals and groups alike participate in social conflict, exploring the reasoning and motivation individuals take to support their belief systems (i.e. ideological identification)[8] that can eventually result in murderous and pathological atrocities, such as the Gulag, the Auschwitz concentration camp, and the Rwandan genocide.[8][36]

In January 2018, Penguin Random House published Peterson's second book, 12 Rules for Life: An Antidote to Chaos, in which self-help principles are discussed in a more accessible style than in his previous published work.[14][19][37] The book appeared on several best-seller lists.[38][39][40]

Peterson's third book, Beyond Order: 12 More Rules for Life, was released on 2 March 2021.[41] On 23 November 2020, his publisher Penguin Random House Canada (PRH Canada) held an internal town hall where many employees criticized the decision to publish the book.[42]

Peterson's fourth book, We Who Wrestle with God: Perceptions of the Divine, was published on 19 November 2024, again by Penguin Random House.[43]


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