2015年9月12日 星期六

Vivienne Westwood, 2013/2014/2015






薇薇安.魏斯伍德的時尚生涯
地點:台北市立美術館
展期:2005 9月1日 ~ 10月19日
英國著名的時尚設計大師薇薇安‧魏斯伍德(Vivienne Westwood)最具代表性的展覽「薇薇安‧魏斯伍德的時尚生涯」將於9月1日在台北市立美術館盛大登場。





享有“庞克之母”称谓的英国设计师Vivienne Westwood


「西太后」訪談:71歲了,依舊挑釁


朋克元素在秋季時裝秀上再度歸來——多娜泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)與安東尼·瓦卡萊洛(Anthony Vaccarello)時裝中的金屬釘,加勒斯·普(Gareth Pugh)的垃圾袋長裙——這並不令人驚訝,因為即將到來的時裝學院(Costume Institute)展覽主題也是朋克運動對時尚的影響。一切都要追溯到維維安·韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood),她曾為“性手槍”(Sex Pistols)設計服裝,20世紀70年代她與馬爾科姆·麥克拉倫(Malcolm McLaren)的合作將成為這次大都會博物館展覽中的重頭戲。現年71歲的她仍和以前一樣充滿挑釁氣質,並不斷在倫敦和巴黎推出新系列。
韋斯特伍德是一個名叫“氣候革命”(Climate Revolution)的環保組織的代言人,所以本周筆者採訪韋斯特伍德時,還要和她討論金融體系與氣候變化的關係這個話題,算是採訪這位設計師的敲門磚。你可以在她的博客上讀到她對這個問題的想法,不過下面的採訪節選是關於朋克的部分,以及她如何繼續前進的:
問:“朋克:從混亂到時裝”(Punk: Chaos to Couture)是下屆時裝學院展的主題。對於朋克成為大型博物館展覽主題這件事你怎麼看?
答:我實話告訴你吧,雖然說出真相倒不見得是什麼好事;大都會博物館沒有舉辦我的回顧展,確實讓我很生氣(即韋斯特伍德2004年在倫敦維多利亞與 阿爾伯特博物館舉辦的展覽)。我覺得這很可笑。我還特別煩那些美國記者。每次朋克風潮一來,他們就拿我出來炫耀。“啊,我們認識維維安,她很棒。”其實這 中間你根本就沒聽說過他們。你知道,美國其實是個孤立的領域,編輯們還覺得自己特別有勢力。大多數時候我覺得他們就是垃圾。我也討厭時尚雜誌。有一次,有 人問我,如果讓我統治世界第一件事要做什麼。我說我會禁止所有廣告。
(一大段關於氣候革命的獨白)
我為自己在朋克運動中所起的作用而驕傲,是因為我覺得朋克運動確實輸出了自己的信息,到現在它還在那兒。嬉皮士們也向我說出了這樣的信息,但是朋克創造了很酷的東西,讓人可以去支持它,那就是:我們不相信政府,我們要反對政府。

問:麥克拉倫的遺孀最近抱怨,這個展覽中可能會有些不準確的信息,因為“煽動分子”(Seditionaries)系列中有仿製品。你覺得如今人們對朋克運動的最大誤解是什麼?
:那女人用扭曲的觀點去看待一切東西。她覺得麥克拉倫是宇宙之王。就因為他希望這個女人保護他,結果所有的朋友都離開了他。她狂熱地迷信他。誰願意和自己最瘋狂的粉絲生活在一起?

問:但是展覽呢?
答:這種事總會有的對不對?到現在還有人說他們賣的東西是跟我合作期間做的呢。如果那些東西是假的,就沖這些人這麼壞,他們的東西也值得一看。麥克拉倫很重視保護他自己的……隨便他覺得是什麼東西吧。他想保護這個世界不受我禍害。他不是什麼好人,非常糊塗。

問:這一季我們在秀台上看到了很多朋克元素,你怎麼看?

答:我不追隨時尚,真的。我對這些從來不感興趣。我覺得朋克已經成了時尚的一種圖騰符號。我們在國王路430號 的商店“世界末日”(Worlds End),1970年或1969年的時候它還叫做“自由先生”(Mr Freedom)。我當時去那兒買了條緊身豹紋絲絨褲子。我那時從沒見過這樣的東西。它是最讓人驚嘆的東西。朋克總在說反叛,現在所有孩子都知道了。

問:到如今時尚仍然能做到去挑釁嗎?
答:大概不行了。現在設計師之間都互相交流。他們一度曾經扮演不重要的角色,大多數公眾根本不知道他們。他們的報酬非常少,一連工作兩星期不休息,掙的錢只有髮型師的1/4那麼多。現在時尚已經成了這個樣子。我覺得已經再也沒有什麼新花樣了。

問:在你的倫敦時裝秀上,你為朱利安·阿桑奇(Julian Assange)辯護,在巴黎,你發表保護北極圈的言論。人們為什麼要重視一個設計師發表的政治言論呢?
答:我非常幸運。公眾碰巧還挺喜歡我。也許他們喜歡我就是因為我總是抓住一切時機去談論不公正的事情。整個朋克 運動時代,我根本不覺得自己是個時裝設計師。我只是把時尚當做表達抗拒與反叛的方式。我當年來自鄉下,去倫敦的時候,我覺得自己非常愚蠢。我的野心就是要 去理解這個我所居住的世界。

問:並且向它挑釁嗎?最近我看到你批評凱特·米德爾頓(Kate Middleton)王妃衣服太多。
答:我沒批評她。我只是說每件衣服她要是能不只穿一次就好了。她長得是挺漂亮,可是如果她今天穿了一身紅的,明天幹嘛非換一身藍的不可?這只是個例子,可以向其他人說明應該少買點衣服。別買那麼多。

問:那你肯定喜歡我們的第一夫人,她重複利用舊衣服是出了名的。
答:別跟我提她。她那些衣服醜死了。

問:什麼?
答:我真的不想說這個,我也沒法說。她長得倒不錯,可是真沒什麼能適合她的衣服。傑姬·肯尼迪(Jackie Kennedy)完全是另一回事。衣服得適合自己,能襯得這個人更漂亮。時尚的意義就在這兒。它是來幫你的,不是用來讓你看上去更保守的。

本次採訪經過壓縮和編輯。
本文最初發表於2013年3月7日。
翻譯:董楠



Vivienne Westwood: At 71, Still Not Done Provoking

Punk is back in the fall collections — spikes at Donatella Versace and Anthony Vaccarello, garbage bag dresses at Gareth Pugh — which is not surprising given that the impact of the punk movement in fashion is the subject of an upcoming Costume Institute exhibition. It all goes back to Vivienne Westwood, who designed for the Sex Pistols and whose collaborations with Malcolm McLaren in the 1970s will feature prominently at the Met. At 71, she remains as provocative as ever while continuing to design collections shown in London and Paris.
Ms. Westwood is a spokeswoman for the environmental group Climate Revolution, so a discourse on the connection between the financial system and climate change is the price of admission to an interview with the designer. You can read her thoughts on that subject at her blog, but here are excerpts from a conversation with Ms. Westwood this week about punk, and continuing to push buttons:

Q. “Punk: Chaos to Couture” is the subject of the next Costume Institute exhibition. What do you think of punk as a subject for a major museum exhibition?
A. I’ll tell you the truth, not that it is a very good idea to tell the truth about things, but I was very cross with the Metropolitan Museum for not taking my retrospective. [An exhibition about Ms. Westwood was at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2004.] I think it’s ridiculous. I’m also rather bored with American journalists. Every time punk comes up, they think of me as a kind of trophy. ‘Oh, we know Vivienne, she’s great.’ And then you hear nothing from them in between. You know, America is an isolated territory, with all those editors who think they are so powerful. Mostly, I think they are rubbish. And I don’t like fashion magazines either. Someone asked me the other day, if I really was a world controller, what is the first thing I would do. I would stop advertising.
[A lengthy aside about Climate Revolution.]
The reason why I am proud of my part in the punk movement is that I think it really did implant a message that was already there. The hippies told it to me, but punk made it something cool for people to stand up for, which is that we do not believe government, that we are against government.
Q. Malcolm’s widow recently complained that the exhibition might include some inaccuracies, because of counterfeits of the Seditionaries designs. What do you think is the biggest misconception about the punk movement today?
A. That woman sees everything with a distorted point of view. She sees Malcolm as the king of the universe. All his friends left him because he wished to be protected by this lady. She’s this fanatical person about him. Who would want to live their life with their most fanatical fan?
Q. But about the exhibition?
A. That happens always, doesn’t it? There are people who still do sell things they say were produced from their time spent with me. If they’re fakes, they are so bad people should be able to see. Malcolm cared about protecting his … whatever it was he thought it was. He tried to protect the world against me. He was not a nice person. Very messed up.
Q. We’re seeing a lot of punk on the runways this season. What do you think?
A. I don’t follow fashion. I really don’t. I’ve never been interested in it. I think punk has entered into the iconography of fashion. In 1970 or 1969, the shop we have, Worlds End at 430 Kings Road, that was Mr Freedom. I went in there and bought a pair of tight leopard-printed velvet trousers. I had never seen anything like it. It was the most amazing thing. Punk says rebellion. Now every child has seen this.
Q. Can fashion still provoke?
A. Probably not. There’s such a communication of stylists. They weren’t very important once. The general public didn’t even know about them. They were paid very badly and worked for two weeks getting a shoot together and got a quarter of what the hair person got. Fashion has become so whatever. I don’t think there are any stones left to unturn.
Q. At your London show, you came to the defense of Julian Assange. In Paris, it was saving the Arctic. Why should anyone care what a fashion designer has to say about politics?
A. I’m very lucky. The public happens to like me. Maybe they like me because I use every opportunity to talk about injustice. I didn’t consider myself a fashion designer at all at the time of punk. I was just using fashion as a way to express my resistance and to be rebellious. I came from the country and by the time I got to London, I considered myself to be very stupid. It was my ambition to understand the world I live in.
Q. And to provoke? The latest I read was that you criticized Kate Middleton for wearing too many clothes.
A. I didn’t criticize her. I said that it would be a wonderful thing for her to wear her clothes more than once. She’s getting this wonderful look, but if she has a red look today, why does she have to wear the blue look tomorrow? It’s just by way of an example to other people that you should buy less. Don’t buy so many clothes.
Q. You must love our first lady, who is famous for recycling her clothes.
A. Don’t talk about her. It’s dreadful what she wears.
Q. What?
A. I don’t want to talk about it. Really, I can’t. She’s a very nice looking lady, but it’s a nonstarter regarding clothes that suit her. Jackie Kennedy was a different matter altogether. It just has to suit her and be something that makes a human being more glamorous. That’s what fashion is there for. It’s there to help, not just to make you look more conservative.

This interview has been condensed and edited.





Vivienne Westwood: 'I do things that irritate people'

The 73-year-old designer and campaigner on what drives her, the last time she cried and why she eats so much lettuce
Vivienne  Westwood: 'Human beings have the potential to evolve and become more and more wonderful because they are aiming at that perfection.' Photograph: Andy Gotts, MBE
I was anti-religious at one time. I'm not any more. The concept of God and the divine is very important. Human beings have the potential to evolve and become more and more wonderful because they are aiming at that perfection.
I do things that irritate people. I'm always saving things, telling people to turn taps off. My husband, Andreas, used to get fed up with me, but he's got a lot better. Some people turn on the tap before they've even put their toothpaste on [the toothbrush]. I only have a mouthful of water at the end.
I have not cried since I lived with Malcolm [McLaren, her ex-partner]. Malcolm needed me to cry every day. He just couldn't leave the house without trying to make me upset. So I stopped. I envy people who can cry.
I was born at a good time to try to understand the world. I'm aware of things that someone 100 years ago wouldn't be, such as the fact that the human race faces mass extinction pretty soon if we don't do anything. During the war, things were precious – growing up, we weren't consuming all the time. And fortunately for me the education system hadn't collapsed.
My favourite food is lettuce. Andreas and I eat one a day between us on average. I make a very good, simple salad dressing. Garlic, oil, lemon, a bit of sugar and a bit of bouillon powder – it's always different. We just love it.
Character is there from birth. The way my sons looked at me when they were first born is the same way they look at me today. My children are honourable people. They really would never shit on anybody.
The world's forgotten more than it knows. Consumption is about throwing away the past. But to engage with the world we must engage with the past through art and reading. It gives you a critique of your own life, and you realise: "I'm not doing anything. Human beings are capable of amazing things and I'm just sucking things up."
I will never vote Labour again. Not unless they get a true green economy programme in place. I said I would vote Conservative after Blair took us into Iraq. Recently I've been voting for the Green Party: they're the only ones saying something different. Ukip is the same as the others – except they don't like elephants, apparently.
Stella McCartney and I want to campaign together more. She just signed our letter demanding the government doesn't go ahead with fracking until people are made aware of the facts.
I have to like it – that's the only criteria I have when I design.
My campaigning hero is Julian Assange. He's done more to affect public opinion than anyone else. Most people don't think change is up to them; they think somehow it will just happen.
I've avoided my biography for a long time. But Andreas convinced me to do it. It's important for some people to tell you about their past, but I don't live in mine or really go over it much.
Vivienne Westwood will be at Latitude Festival on 19 July on behalf of Greenpeace's Save the Arctic campaign (latitudefestival.com)


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